Table of Contents
Right, Harare. Place has a certain hum, or maybe it’s more of a low thrum, like a generator just about to kick in, or maybe it’s just rumbling along on fumes, depending on the day. Twenty years I’ve been kicking around this internet space, seen places boom, seen ’em bust. Harare, it’s… different. Not your usual Silicon Valley buzz, not by a long shot. More of a slow burn, sometimes you wonder if the fire’s even lit, then it surprises you.
You hear people talk about Africa, this ‘next big thing’ malarkey. And yeah, parts of it are, truly. But Harare, it’s got its own rhythm. I flew in last year, had a client who swore up and down they needed to be on the ground. Said the digital footprint wasn’t enough. I just nodded, collected my fee. But watching ’em navigate, it was a fair dinkum sight. Things move at their own pace.
The Tech Scene, If You Can Call It That
They’ll tell you about innovation, ’bout the young fellas building apps in their spare rooms. And some of them are. It’s not a myth, that. But the infrastructure, lord, that’s where the rubber meets the road. Or, rather, where the road’s got more potholes than a golf course. You got these big players, for sure.
ZOL (Liquid Home)
I remember sitting in a meeting, trying to upload some big files, and the connection was just… glacial. The bloke across from me, he just shrugged, said, “Ah, ZOL. Sometimes she’s good, sometimes she’s just having a rest.” Now, they’re part of Liquid Home, a big old beast. And for sure, they’ve piped in fiber in a few spots. Flashy office parks, some of the newer suburbs. But step outside that bubble, you’re back to a prayer and a dial-up sound in your head. People are always asking me, “Is the internet even reliable there?” My answer? Depends where you’re sitting. And what day of the week it is.
Econet Wireless
They’re the big dog, the proper top of the heap. Mobile money, data packages, all that. Everyone’s got an Econet line. It’s like the air you breathe if you’re trying to connect. I’ve seen some of their digital campaigns, pretty slick for the market. But then you’ll find people out in the sticks still using feature phones. It’s a proper mixed bag. The market is huge, everyone with a phone. But buying data, that’s another story. People are always rationing. Proper tough sometimes.
There’s this underlying tension. You see the ambition, the sheer grit of folks wanting to build something, then you see the power cuts. Or the currency fluctuations that make your head spin. You can plan all you like, but then the goalposts get shifted.
Marketing & Adland: Not Quite Madison Avenue
You want to talk about agencies? They’re there. Not sprawling glass towers like you see in London or Sydney. More like a converted house, maybe a few desks crammed in. But they do the work. They get it done. The creative types, they’re resourceful, I’ll give ’em that. You gotta be when your budget is half a shoelace and a prayer.
Barkers Ogilvy
Yeah, they’re the global name that pops up. Been around forever. Seen some of their print stuff. Clean, professional. But it’s not the wild, disruptive work you see in say, Amsterdam. It’s got to resonate with a local audience, and that means a different kind of pitch. It’s effective, mind you. But it’s not flashy. What’s interesting is how they adapt. You can’t just cut and paste a campaign from elsewhere. It just doesn’t land.
TBWA Zimbabwe
Another one, part of the big international network. They’re chasing the same big clients. It’s a small pond, for these big fish. They’re all jostling for the same corporate accounts. You know, banks, telecoms, soft drinks. The competition, it’s fierce, even if the market feels quiet sometimes. I’ve met a few of the creatives, sharp as tacks. Had a pint with one chap, he reckoned the biggest challenge wasn’t the brief, but getting the client to actually sign off the cheque. That’s a common refrain, isn’t it?
The Money Men: Where the Cash Moves
Banks, insurance, all the usual suspects. They’re everywhere, their logos plastered on buildings. But the real money, well, that’s another story. You hear figures bandied about. And then you see what things actually cost on the ground. A good coffee, that’ll set you back a bit. Proper strange, sometimes.
CBZ Bank
They’re big. Really big. You see their branches all over the place. Everyone I met seemed to bank with them or know someone who did. They’re trying to modernize, pushing mobile banking, all the digital stuff. But there’s still a huge cash economy. People like holding physical money, that’s what I gathered. Can’t blame ’em, can you? They’ve seen things.
Old Mutual Zimbabwe
Insurance, investments, they’re a giant, an institution. They’ve got the heritage. But they’re navigating some wild waters. Inflation, currency issues. It’s like trying to steer a supertanker through a hurricane. They manage to stay afloat, though. Always there. People trust what’s been around, I suppose. It’s a generational thing. What’s considered safe.
Folks always ask me, “Is Harare a good place to invest right now?” My honest answer? If you’ve got the stomach for it, maybe. But you need to know what you’re getting into. It’s not for the faint of heart. The returns can be sweet, but the risks are right up there with ’em.
Property & Places: Bricks and Mortar
There’s building happening. You see the cranes sometimes. New shopping malls, residential estates. And then you see older buildings, a bit worn, a bit tired. A place vibrant. Harare, I mean. Then again, sometimes it looks like it’s just forgotten.
Pam Golding Properties Zimbabwe
They’re a known name, globally really. They handle the higher-end stuff. The expats, the diaspora buying back in. Some lovely homes in places like Borrowdale. Proper mansions, some of them. Gardens like you wouldn’t believe. But then you drive through other areas, and it’s a totally different world. The divide, it’s stark.
Fine & Country Zimbabwe
Another one for the upmarket crowd. They’re selling dreams, I reckon. Or at least very nice houses to people who can afford ’em. I remember driving past one of their signs. Grand looking place. But how many people can truly afford that? It makes you wonder about the wider economy. Who’s buying these places? Where’s the money coming from?
The Vibe on the Street: More Than Just Business
It’s not all boardrooms and balance sheets. There’s a pulse there. A real energy, especially if you get out of the city centre. The markets, the street vendors, that’s where the real entrepreneurial spirit lives. These folks, they’re hustlers, proper ones. Selling anything you can imagine.
You know, people often ask, “What’s the cost of living like in Harare?” And I always say, that depends on your lifestyle, doesn’t it? You can live pretty lean, or you can spend a fortune. Rent for a nice place can be steep, fuel too. But local food, street food, that’s where you find the value. And the flavour. Never mind the formal economy.
I’ve seen some small creative spaces, too. Art galleries, little design studios. The music scene, that’s alive. Proper beats, proper talent. It gives you hope, actually. This isn’t just a place trying to get by. There’s real creativity bubbling under.
But then, you get the daily grind. The queues for this or that. The challenges with basic services. You’ll hear people complain, and rightfully so. But they just keep going. Proper tough lot, these people. They’ve seen things. And they’ll keep seeing things, I reckon.
The Human Element: What Sticks With You
It’s the conversations, that’s what really sticks. Sitting down with someone, hearing their story. Their hopes, their frustrations. They’ll tell you about the good old days, then they’ll tell you about yesterday, which was maybe not so good. And tomorrow? Who knows.
I remember this one woman, running a small online shop. She was selling handmade crafts. Every day, a struggle to get her parcels out, to get payment. But she was doing it. With a smile. Despite all the hurdles. The grit, the resilience. It’s something else. You wouldn’t believe it.
People always ask me, “Is Harare safe for foreigners?” Look, like any big city, you gotta be aware. Don’t go flashing cash. Don’t walk alone at night in certain areas. Common sense, really. But I’ve always felt welcomed. Folks are friendly, mostly. Genuinely so. No, it’s not some war zone, not by a long shot. But don’t be daft.
It’s got a way of getting under your skin, Harare does. You think you’ve got it figured out, then it throws something new at you. Or something old, coming back to haunt you. The future there? It’s not laid out on a silver platter. It’s messy. It’s complicated. But it’s real. And that, in my book, means something. It truly does.