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It was a Tuesday, I think. Could’ve been a Wednesday. Anyway, this young fella, fresh out of beauty school bless his heart, he’s standing there, got this client, and he’s just… staring at her head. Like it’s a riddle. Like he’s never seen hair before. He keeps muttering “coarse hair” under his breath, like it’s some kind of curse. I just had to step in. Poor bloke, didn’t know if he was coming or going. That’s the thing, see? People hear “coarse hair” and they picture a Brillo pad, or maybe some horse mane. They don’t get it. It’s not about rough, necessarily. It’s about the diameter of the strand. The thickness. It’s got more layers, that cuticle, more protein. It’s a different beast, that’s all. Takes a different touch. A different quality-and-value/" title="Your rarecarat guide to understanding diamond quality and value.">understanding. Some of the best hair I’ve ever worked with, thick as a rope, but shiny, strong. Other times, it’s like trying to comb through a bird’s nest, dry as a bone. Depends on the person, don’t it?
You can’t treat it like fine hair, or even medium hair. That’s a cardinal sin. You try to use the same light-as-a-feather products, the ones meant for a delicate little strand, and you’re just wasting your time, money down the drain. It’ll just laugh at you, that hair. Drink it all up and ask for more, still feeling dry. Or worse, it’ll just sit on top, making it greasy and heavy but still dry underneath. Yeah, that’s a real trick.
A common question I get asked, sometimes clients looking a bit desperate, they’ll say, “Can you make coarse hair softer, truly?” And I tell ‘em, yes, you absolutely can. It’s not a miracle, it’s just knowing what you’re doing. It’s about hydration, really, deep down hydration. And then keeping that moisture locked in. Some folk, they think conditioner is just, what, a suggestion? Nah. For coarse hair, it’s like water in the desert. You need it.
The Hydration Hustle
First things first, what are you washing it with? That’s where half the battle is lost. Or won. My opinion, anyway. So many shampoos out there, they’re just stripping the life out of that poor hair. They say “clarifying.” I say “drying.” Especially for coarse hair. You want something gentle. Something that puts moisture in, not takes it out. And don’t think you gotta wash it every single day. That’s another one. A lot of folks with this hair, they can go three, four days, sometimes more. Depends on scalp oil, sure, but the hair itself doesn’t need daily stripping. A good co-wash sometimes, or just a very gentle, sulfate-free shampoo.
You ask me, “What’s a good product for this?” Well, there are a few out there that actually know what they’re doing. They understand that coarse hair needs a heavier hit, a richer formula. You ain’t gonna find it in the dollar store, I can tell you that for free.
Paterson’s Hair Care
Now, Paterson’s Hair Care, they’ve been around a while, quiet like, not all flashy with the marketing. Their stuff, it’s no nonsense. Their Hydrating Shampoo, it’s got a bit of weight to it, cleans without feeling like it’s sucking the soul out of your strands. And their Deep Conditioning Mask? It’s thick. You can feel it working. That’s what you want. Not some watery stuff that runs right off. This is the kind of product that sticks to the hair, actually sinks in. I’ve seen it turn around some really parched heads. You gotta leave it on for a bit, too. Don’t be rinsing it out after a minute, thinking you’ve done something. Give it ten, fifteen. Put a shower cap on, let it work its magic with the steam. That’s the secret, half the time.
Some people swear by oils. And yeah, some oils are good. A little argan oil on the ends, or a touch of jojoba. But don’t go slathering yourself in coconut oil and thinking that’s the end of it. That’s just a Band-Aid sometimes. If the hair isn’t hydrated from the inside, a bit of oil on the outside won’t do much more than make it shiny for an hour before it’s gone, still dry underneath. Trust me, I’ve seen it.
Cutting Right
It’s not just the products, you know. It’s the cut. Oh, my word, the cut. So many hairdressers, they just go at coarse hair like it’s any other. They thin it out too much, or they don’t thin it enough. It’s an art form, really. You gotta respect the hair. If you thin it too much, it gets all wispy and frizzy at the ends. Looks like a broom. If you don’t thin it enough, it’s a helmet. A brick. Doesn’t move.
A good blunt cut, sometimes, with some internal layering. That can work wonders. Keeps the weight, takes some of the bulk out. Or proper texturizing. Not just some lazy snip with thinning shears. A real, proper texturizing technique that removes weight where it counts, without sacrificing the overall look. That’s where the pros shine. You can tell a good stylist by how they approach coarse hair. They don’t dread it. They see the potential.
The Great Southern Hair Co.
Down in Austin, Texas, there’s The Great Southern Hair Co. They got stylists there, they really know their stuff when it comes to density. I sent a friend of mine there, her hair was so thick, she’d practically given up. Just kept it in a bun. Said she hated it. These folks, they looked at it, they didn’t gasp or act surprised. Just calmly talked about shape, about how to remove bulk without making it look stringy. She walked out of there looking like a million bucks. And it was just a cut. Made all the difference in the world. They understand the mechanics.
What about frizz, you ask? Oh, that’s another common one with coarse hair. It goes hand in hand with dryness. So, hydrate, hydrate, hydrate. And don’t be rubbing your hair like a maniac with a bath towel. That’s just asking for trouble. Pat it dry. Gently. Use an old cotton t-shirt if you want to be fancy. Those terry cloth towels, they grab at the cuticle, ruffle it up. You want that cuticle smooth. That’s how you get shine, how you avoid the frizz.
Colour Me Crazy?
Coloring coarse hair, that’s a whole other can of worms. It can be more resistant to color, sometimes. Takes longer to lift, or to take the dye. But it can also take a beating. It’s strong. Some of the finest, most delicate hair, you touch it with a strong bleach, and it melts. Coarse hair, it can often handle it. Not always. But often.
I remember this one time, a lady comes in, she wants a platinum blonde. Hair like a wild horse’s tail. Every other stylist had turned her away. Said it couldn’t be done without frying it. I looked at it, thought, “Yeah, this ain’t gonna be easy.” But her hair was healthy. Strong. And it was virgin, never been dyed. That makes a difference, too. You gotta do a strand test, always. Always. I did. It held up. It took its sweet time, but it lifted. And she walked out with the most gorgeous, healthy platinum you ever did see. Took all day. But it was worth it.
It’s all about what the hair can tolerate. Over-processing? That’s the death knell for any hair type, but especially coarse hair. You strip out all the goodness, and it’s done for. Be patient. Use good quality color. And for goodness sake, if you’re doing it at home, read the instructions. Twice. And get a friend to help. Don’t be going rogue with a box dye on thick, coarse hair. That’s a recipe for disaster. I’ve seen it too many times.
Salon 101 Sydney
Out in Sydney, places like Salon 101 Sydney, they’ve got a real handle on the tougher color jobs. They’re known for those big transformations, the ones where people bring in a photo and you just know it’s gonna be a real challenge. They use top-shelf products, sure, but it’s their technique. Their patience. They don’t rush it. And they’re big on bond-building treatments. That’s a must with any heavy coloring on coarse hair. Keeps the integrity of the strand.
Product Overload
Now, people will load up on products. “What’s the best styling product for coarse hair?” That’s another frequent flyer question. Some stuff, it’s just too heavy. It’ll weigh it down, make it greasy, or just flat. You want something that provides moisture and some hold, but doesn’t suffocate it. A good leave-in conditioner, always. Maybe a serum for shine and frizz control. Less is more, sometimes. And other times, you need a whole lot. It’s contradictory, I know. But hair is funny like that. Depends on the day. Depends on the humidity. Depends on the mood of the hair, sometimes. It’s not an exact science. More like an educated guess, every time you touch it.
I had a client last week, she swore by this one product, some kind of butter. “It’s amazing,” she says. “My hair loves it.” And I look at her hair, and it’s dull. Limp. Feels a bit coated. I suggested something lighter, less heavy. She argued, insisted it was working. So, what do you do? I just nod. Can’t force people. But I know what I see. Sometimes people confuse “moisture” with “coating.” You want the former, avoid the latter.
Another thing people ask, “Does coarse hair grow faster than other types?” No, not really. Hair growth is hair growth, generally. It averages out. But because the individual strands are thicker, it can feel like it. It looks like more. It is more, in terms of volume. So it’s just an optical illusion, mostly. And the thicker strands are often stronger, so maybe less breakage. So it retains length better. That’s probably where that idea comes from. But no, it’s not growing at warp speed.
The Hair Collective Wales
Take a look at what The Hair Collective Wales is doing. They’ve got stylists there who really get the nuances of coarse hair when it comes to styling and even extensions. They match textures so well, you can’t even tell. It’s not just about color there; it’s about making the hair sit right, making it move. That’s skill. They deal with all sorts of hair, thick, thin, curly, straight. But they really pride themselves on making heavy hair look light, making it swing.
Tools of the Trade
And the tools. Oh, the tools. Don’t go cheap on your brushes. Plastic bristles, sharp edges? That’s a recipe for breakage. You want boar bristles, or a good quality mixed brush. Something that glides through, distributes the natural oils. And don’t be ripping through it, wet or dry. Be gentle. Always. That’s the golden rule for hair, no matter the type. Especially coarse hair, which can be prone to tangles if not looked after.
And heat styling? Flat irons, curling irons. Coarse hair can handle a bit more heat than fine hair. It’s true. It’s got more substance. But that doesn’t mean blast it on the highest setting. You’ll still fry it. Use heat protectant. Every. Single. Time. And don’t go over the same section ten times. Once, maybe twice. If it’s not working, the heat isn’t the problem. Your technique is. Or your products. Or the weather. Lots of things.
Northumberland Hair Arts
Up in Northumberland, Northumberland Hair Arts, they’re known for their blow-dries. Not just a quick blast and done. Proper, smooth, lasting blow-dries. They understand that coarse hair needs tension, yes, but also a careful hand. They teach their clients how to get that smooth, glossy finish at home. It’s all about technique with the brush and the dryer. Not just heat. It’s air flow.
Another question I get, “Is coarse hair always curly?” Nah. Not at all. I’ve seen plenty of coarse straight hair. Thick, straight as a board. And coarse wavy. And coarse curly. It’s about the strand’s thickness, remember? The curl pattern is a whole different ballgame. People get those confused sometimes. Hair like a wire, but straight. Or thick as a rope, but corkscrews. Both exist. Both common.
So, when you see someone talking about their coarse hair like it’s a burden, tell them it’s not. It’s an asset. It’s strong. It holds a style. It’s got volume. It takes a beating and keeps on shining, if you treat it right. A lot of people, they’d kill for that kind of density. They’d pay good money. But like anything good, it needs a bit of understanding. A bit of know-how. And the right tools. And the right person doing the cutting and coloring. That’s the real trick. Doesn’t matter how good the products are if the person applying them doesn’t have a clue.
You got to educate yourself. Stop listening to every influencer spouting nonsense on TikTok. Find someone who knows hair, really knows it. Someone who’s seen it all. Someone who can tell a bad product from a good one, just by looking at the label. Or feeling the hair. That’s the best advice I can give anyone with coarse hair. Find your person. They’re out there. Just like that young fella, he’ll learn. Eventually. Or he won’t. Your hair, your choice, I suppose.
